ROCKRIDER E-FEEL 700S ELECTRIC MTB

You can connect your smartphone to your electric mountain bike via Bluetooth. This gives you the full e-bike experience, including:

The SHIMANO E-TUBE application allows you to personalise your configuration and update the app

The SHIMANO CONNECT Lab application allows you to display different charts and maps by downloading data on your outing to the cloud associated with SHIMANO ID. The application analyses and manages your cycling data to help you become a better cyclist.

Having the right tyre pressure is particularly important on an electric bike.
The wheels have a lot of weight on them because of the combination of the motor and bike.

On the original inner tube assembly (tubular):

To reduce the risk of punctures and ensure your bike can achieve its maximum range, we recommend inflating your tyres to a pressure of between 1.4 and 1.8 bar.

If you're looking for more traction and comfort, you can lower the pressure. If you're looking for more battery life and pedalling performance, you can inflate the tyre a bit more.

Take care not to exceed the maximum OR minimum pressures displayed on the sidewall of your tyre.

An under-inflated tyre can cause the inner tube to get pinched and can damage the rims when riding over obstacles, while an over-inflated tyre can explode the inner tube or tyre, or deform the rim over the long term.

A well-inflated tyre is essential for cycling. So remember to frequently check your tyre pressure.

TUBELESS is a great way of getting the most out of your tyres. The pressure is lower (by about half a bar) than with tube-type tyres. As it's less inflated, the tyre's "carcass" will be able to come into contact with the floor. And it won't be stopped by the inner tube. Switching to tubeless is a good way to improve riding comfort, efficiency and grip while reducing the risk of punctures.

With a tubeless set-up, the aim is to lower the pressure to get the most out of the tyre without the rim touching the floor as you go over obstacles.
Follow the pressure recommendations in the table below and fine-tune things based on how it feels to you.

Take care not to inflate your tubeless tyres above 3 bar as this could cause your aluminium rims to deform.
A well-inflated tyre is essential for cycling. So remember to frequently check your tyre pressure.

Your fork needs to be adjusted according to your riding style, the terrain and your tastes, and most importantly according to your weight.

There are 3 things you can adjust on your fork: the preload, the rebound and the compression

The preload determines the hardness of your fork. As it's an air spring, you'll need to compress the air to adjust its hardness. You will therefore need a high-pressure shock pump. Never use a car tyre inflator or air compressor for this stage as it could damage your fork. The air valve can be found on the top of the fork's left stanchion.

The bounce dictates the speed at which the suspension returns to its original position after damping an impact. It is adjusted by a small knob under the fork (see photo).

The compression varies the speed at which the suspension compresses. It can be adjusted using the blue wheel on the fork's crown.

To find out more about adjusting your suspension, follow this link and we'll explain everything you need to know!

To make your mountain bike behave predictably, your fork's sag should correlate with your shock's sag. The process is almost identical to that for your fork:

Once you've figured out the correct settings, you'll need an extra pair of hands and a high-pressure pump designed for suspension systems, as well as a ruler or measuring tape.

First, pump your suspension according to the recommended settings indicated on your shock. Ask someone to hold the MTB so you can get onto it. Once seated on the bike, measure how far the shock goes in. Lower your suspension's pressure to increase your sag, and inflate it to reduce your sag.

Like with the fork, for a softer, more comfortable ride, you'll want a high sag (between 30% and 35%). For a more competitive ride, you'll need it to be harder (between 25% and 30%).

NB: The valve's cap is there to protect the valve from dust. It doesn't do anything to retain the pressure. So there's no point doing it up too tight!

When your bike leaves the shop with its shiny new brake pads and discs, its braking power is weak. A sharp prolonged braking action (for example, during a descent) with brakes that have never before been used can cause the pads to overheat and to "glaze over".

To ensure that your brakes perform, we recommend that you bed them in. This takes about 10 gentle braking actions per brake. For each braking action, apply a single brake to slow the bike down from about 25 km/h to 5 km/h without fully blocking the wheel. Repeat with the other brake.

If you can see a thin, shiny layer on the top of your brake pads, this probably means that they're glazed. To avoid having to throw them away, you can deglaze them by sanding them lightly with some relatively fine sandpaper (P120). Remember to wear gloves and a mask when sanding your brake pads. Then simply remount your brake pads and bed them in again.

Your handlebar comes set to the most raised position, which is the most comfortable position for riding.

For improved aerodynamics and more efficient pedalling, you can lower your handlebar so that your body leans forward and adopts a more racing-like position.

Follow the steps in this video to move the headset spacers that sit below the stem and lower the handlebars on your bike.

Proper handlebar alignment will prevent arm and shoulder pain as well as improve your mountain biking experience. Check out this video to learn how to align your handlebars.

Properly positioning your brake levers is important for safety and comfort on your bike. Check out this video to learn how to orient your brake levers.

Adjusting the height of your saddle will improve your comfort and performance on the bike.

Stand next to your saddle. Tilt the quick-release lever to unlock it. Pull the saddle up or push it down to bring it level with your pelvis. Tilt the lever again to lock it. To make sure you get it right, take a look at our tutorial video.

Note that your bike is fitted with a dropper seat post, so take care not to pull the seat post too far or, on the contrary, not to push it too far. You run the risk of pulling too hard on the cable or jamming it.

Adjusting the tilt of your saddle will improve your comfort and performance on the bike. Check out this video to learn how to adjust the tilt of your saddle.

Follow this video to learn how to replace your pedals. 

If you are choosing clipless pedals, practise clipping and unclipping your shoes in order to prepare for possible falls when riding. 

To reduce the risk of your inner tube being punctured or pinched, and to improve grip and comfort, you may want to consider making your mountain bike wheels tubeless.

Your wheels and tyres are tubeless ready, which means that the rim-sealing tape is already in place and the tyre is tubeless compatible. All you need is a pair of Presta tubeless valves and some sealant (puncture prevention liquid). Remember to wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself in case you get a blowout.

To go tubeless, follow these steps:

1. Remove the wheel
2. Take the inner tube off the rim
3. Check that the rim tape is properly stuck on and that there aren't any bubbles or tears
4. Insert a tubeless valve through the rim hole (from inside the rim)
5. Add between 60 and 90 ml of anti-puncture liquid sealant (depending on the width of the tyre)
6. Put your tubeless tyre back on
7. Inflate the wheel quickly to ensure that the tyre sticks to the rim.
Please note, never exceed 3 bars of pressure, or you risk exploding your tyre or damaging your rims.

If it seems too tricky, just visit your nearest Decathlon workshop and ask them to do it for you.

With the original charger, it takes 4 hours to charge your battery to 80% and 5.7 hours to charge it to 100%

It's an electric-assist bike. That means it's entirely possible to ride without this assistance.
However, you may well notice the additional weight of the assistance system.

To avoid any electrical hazards, we advise against leaving your bike/battery plugged into the mains for more than 24 hours.
When the battery is fully charged, the charger stops charging.

No. Lithium-ion batteries have no memory effect. So they can be charged at any time.
We recommend charging your battery after each ride to keep it working well.

No, it doesn't have a dynamo. Some systems let you charge the battery as you ride or brake, but this doesn't generate much power.

When your battery wears out, take it to your local Decathlon store, which will send it to a specialist facility to be recycled.

You must store and charge your battery in a cool (between 10°C and 25°C), dry place, out of direct sunlight.
To avoid deep discharge, which may cause it to malfunction, do not put the battery away when less than 10% charged.
Ideally, charge it to 60% and remember to charge the battery (even if it's not being used) at least once a year to prevent deep discharge and loss of the battery's capacity.

Your battery comes with a two-year guarantee.At the end of 1000 charging cycles, Shimano guarantees a range that is still higher than 60% of that of the new battery. 

(1 cycle = 1 charge to 100% + 1 discharge to 100% or 2 charges to 50% + 2 discharges to 50%)

1. CHECK THE BATTERY > CHARGER > MAINS SOCKET CONNECTION
Make sure the charger you are using is an original one provided by Decathlon.
Connect the charger to the battery and to a mains socket.
LED is on= the battery is charging.
LED flashing= the battery or charger has a problem

2. CHECK THAT THERE IS NO DIRT PREVENTING CHARGING
The charger's and the battery's connectors should be clean. There should be no dirt preventing contact between the battery and its charger.

The battery LEDs indicate the battery charge level. A flashing LED indicates that the battery is charging

An error code may appear on your screen. Try shutting down your screen and then restarting it. If the issue continues, remove the battery and then re-insert it. 
If the error code is still showing on your screen, please go to the Shimano online support with the following link.

If the problem continues or you are unable to perform the action, please visit one of our Decathlon workshops for a repair.

1. Make sure you are following the recommendations for using and storing your bike.
Your electric bike's range depends on a number of factors:
> THE LOAD ON THE BIKE: The range will be reduced if the bike is carrying too much weight.
> THE TYPE OF ROUTE: The range is reduced on climbs.
> THE TYRE PRESSURE: The battery will last longer with tyres that are correctly inflated.
> THE OUTDOOR TEMPERATURE: The range is reduced in colder weather (up to -50%).
> THE BOOST MODE USED: It is advisable to reduce the power assistance mode when the battery charge is low.
> FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHARGING AND STORING YOUR BATTERY.

2. An old battery can have reduced performance.
The distance you can travel will therefore be reduced. Visit your Decathlon workshop to give your battery a check-up.

When you take your new bike out for a ride for the first time, a lot of parts can shift and fall into place.

One such part is the spokes, which can sometimes be heard creaking. This is caused by the residual twist from assembly.

Your wheels should not be buckled in any way at all. Come along to the workshop to straighten it out!

IMPORTANT: Before anything else, remember to remove the battery from the bike before repairing or maintaining the drive train.

There are several things you can do to ensure your rear gears shift properly:

1/ Check the position of the cable and housing:
1a. Housing ends that are out of position can obstruct the derailleur cable when it is being pulled and prevent the gears from shifting smoothly. If a housing end is out of position, push it back into place.

1b. If the derailleur is not moving even after you have engaged and disengaged the grip shifter, it probably means that the cable and its housing have seized up. You will need to have the cable and housing replaced.

You can bring your mountain bike into a Decathlon workshop to have the cable and housing replaced, or do it yourself by following this video. The only difference from the video is that there is a single housing that goes from the shifter to the derailleur, passing under the diagonal tube on the frame.

2. Check that the derailleur dropout isn't bent:
A bent hanger causes the derailleur to be out of alignment and therefore unable to function correctly. Stand behind your bike and check the alignment of the derailleur.

If the dropout is twisted or broken, take your bike to a DECATHLON workshop to have it replaced.

NB: If you regularly ride your MTB in wet or muddy conditions, or if you regularly wash your bike with lots of water, then your cables and cable housing will need to be replaced more frequently. Washing your bike using a high pressure hose is highly discouraged as it can push dirt and dust into the cable housing.

To clean your bike properly, you'll need some bike cleaner, a sponge and a brush.

Rinse off the bike with a hose and apply the bike cleaner. Next, use the sponge and brush to work the cleaner in. It's essential to give the bike cleaner some time to act before rinsing the bike off.
When hosing the bike off, make sure you do so from a few steps away so as not to damage the mechanical components.
Lastly, dry your bike using a soft, clean cloth.

To wash your electric mountain bike, it is important to leave the battery on the bike. This will protect the leads from water!
Do not use a pressure washer as water could get into the ball bearings and permanently damage the electrical components.

It is essential to properly store your mountain bike to improve its lifespan, particularly if it is an electrical assistance bike.

After your ride, we recommend:
> Clean off any mud and sand to prevent your bike from rusting.
> Dry and lubricate your drive train (being sure not to get any on the brakes) to protect it from rust and corrosion.
> Store your mountain bike in a cool dry place.

For winter storage, we have a few other tips to add:
> Put the derailleur on the small cog to release the tension on the cables.
> Ideally, charge the battery to 60%.
> You can coat your bike in a thin layer of Vaseline, focusing on the spokes and hub, the rims, the handlebar, and the stem. Use a clean cloth, slightly soaked in oil; this will protect the components from dust.
> Hang your mountain bike by the frame to limit pressure on the tyres and prevent possible fissures.

IMPORTANT: Cool does not mean cold! Avoid overly hot or cold temperatures at all costs. Do not store your mountain bike in the sun and be careful of winter freeze.
The garage can be a good solution, as long as it stays dry and does not freeze in winter; otherwise, store it inside your house.

To improve the lifespan of your battery as much as possible, we recommend:

- Reducing your use of it (a mountain bike is not a scooter!)
- Charging the battery with the original charger, and ensuring that the charger is in good condition
- Storing your MTB with a charge level around 60% (do not leave the battery plugged in beyond 100% and do not store it totally discharged)
- Storing your MTB in the shade or in cool rooms.

When transporting it, also consider removing the battery from your mountain bike and storing it inside your vehicle.

On disc brakes, you need to change the pads regularly. Depending on how heavily you use your brakes, the wear on the pads will be affected.

If you feel a loss of "bite", a loss of performance, or a squeak in your brakes, your pads may be worn out. To be sure, check the thickness of the pad. If there is less than one or two millimetres left, replace it.

You can replace your brake pads yourself by purchasing pads, or you can bring your EAMTB to a Decathlon workshop so that one of our technicians can replace them.

The fork is one of the mountain bike components that works the hardest, so it needs thorough maintenance to keep you safe and comfortable on technical trails. We therefore recommend giving it a regular check-up.

There are several things you'll need to do to keep your fork going for as long as possible:

> After each ride, clean any dirt off the dampers and dust seals. This will minimise the risk of dirt getting into the blade. You can also add PTFE lubricant to stop the seals drying out. Wipe off any excess as you don't want it to pick up dust.

> Between 25 h and 50 h of riding, you can dismantle the forks, clean the plungers and forks completely and lubricate the forks again. This maintenance is more complex, since it requires you to disassemble the fork. We recommend dropping off your MTB at one of our Decathlon workshops to prevent any risks of damaging your fork.

A worn chain will struggle to change gears and will wear out the cassette and chainring prematurely.

You can check how worn your chain is by using a wear indicator. Simply place the indicator's notch between two links and let the other end drop onto the chain. If it fits neatly between two links, the chain is worn and it's important to change it soon, before it damages the cassette and chainring.

We recommend changing your chain when it's 50% worn. Above 75%, you should change the chain, cassette AND chainring, which is why it's best to regularly change your chain: this stops you having to replace your entire drive train.

If you use your EAMTB for mobility, use all the different cogs on the cassette, or a lighter assistance mode. It is very common for users to need to replace their entire cassette because the small cog is worn out prematurely due to an assistance mode that is too often in turbo mode, or because the small cog is too worn compared to the others.

You can fit your EA MTB with a side-entry bottle cage.

Your bike is compatible with the THULE 938 VELOSPACE XT bike rack available at Decathlon stores.

This bike rack can hold up to two electric bikes.