TRIBAN GRAVEL GRVLW 120

When using the bike for the first time, you should take time to bed the brakes in. This video will show you how to do it.

Once you've assembled your gravel bike, your brakes might need adjusting. This video explains how to do it. 

It's important to find the right position so that you feel comfortable on your bike. Here's a general guide to setting up your bike correctly, which you should adapt based on how your own bike feels.

For gravel riding, the tyre pressure has to be just right because the bike will be used on a range of surfaces. You'll need to adapt the pressure based on the total weight, the type of terrain and the tyre itself. On your particular bike, we recommend following the advice in the link below.

These numbers are for reference only. You're more than welcome to experiment and adjust the pressure based on how it feels as you ride.
You'll find the minimum and maximum pressures on the tyre's sidewall.
If you're really interested, here's a full article on the whole topic!

To set your saddle correctly it needs to be securely in place. A loose seat post can slip when you're out and about on your bike. Conversely, if it's too tight, you run the risk of crushing the seat post and damaging your bike.

The best way to tighten a seat post is to use a torque wrench. We recommend you tighten it to between 6 and 7 Nm.

Take care not to exceed the maximum height indicated on the seat post.

When removing/replacing your rear wheel, be gentle so as not to damage your equipment.

If you're not going to be using your bike for a long time, you should:

> Store your bike somewhere cool and sheltered.

> Clean it, before putting it away, to remove mud or sand that could corrode it.

- Lubricate the chain. Spray some All-In-One over the entire bike to protect it from rust

- Put the chain onto the smallest cog

- If your tyres are tubeless, check the level of sealant in them before you use your bike again. If the wheels don't turn for a long time, the liquid can solidify and stop working.

We recommend wearing a helmet and gloves while riding. Anyone can take a tumble, and you'll be grateful for your helmet and gloves when it inevitably happens!

To find out if your pads are worn, check the thickness of the brake lining on the pad. You'll need to change the pads if the lining is less than 0.5 mm thick.This video shows you how to change your brake pads.

After replacing your brake pads we recommend bedding them in so that they don't "seize up" (which would cause weaker braking power).

Your tyre might be quite stiff if it's old, so you may need to use some force to get it off.

You'll find the right tyres in the link below.

Your tyre might be quite stiff if it's old, so you may need to use some force to get it off. We recommend that you don't reuse the old sealant.
Check that your tyre is tubeless ready compatible (check on the tyre wall) and that your rim has a suitable rim strip.

You'll find the right tyres in the link below.

To change your cassette, you'll need the right lock ring and a chain whip. You'll find both of these tools in the link below. 

To do this, you will need: a chain tool, a new chain, and a quick-link.

Place the chain on the last cog and on the smallest chainring. 

Remove the quick-link using the pliers or chain tool, then take the old chain off the drivetrain.
IMPORTANT: certain chains only fit in 1 direction, be sure to check the user guide.

Place the new chain on the last cog and on the smallest chainring. This will make it easier to determine its optimal length.

The chain should pass close to the top pulley of the upper jockey wheel on the derailleur.

Once you've determined the correct length, use the chain tool to cut the chain.

Lastly, install the quick-link onto the chain, turn the pedal so as to position the quick-link on the upper part of the chain, and use your hand to apply pressure and ensure it is firmly locked in place.

Are your pedals broken? Do you want to change your pedals for clipless ones? Here's our advice.

NB: please note that the screw thread on the left pedal is inverted and that the pedal thus screws on in an anti-clockwise direction. The right pedal has a normal thread.

Make sure to use the correct tool to remove your pedals as you will need to use some force to unscrew them.

If your disc makes noise:

- Check that your wheel is properly centred. To do this, loosen the wheel and tighten it up again.

- Check that your calliper is correctly adjusted and that the brake cables are set at the right tension.

- Check that the disc is straight.

- Clean the entire brake system with water. If necessary, clean the discs with some water and soap.

The brakes might make a noise if they haven't been bedded in properly. In this case, follow the bedding-in procedure.

If you've been braking very hard over a long period (for example, when going down a steep hill), your brake pads might have glazed over and/or your disc could have overheated. In this case, replace your brake pads and discs.

There are several things you can do if your brakes aren't working as well as they used to:

- Clean your bike, discs and brakes with soapy water

- Check your brake pads for wear.

- Check that the cable is properly tensioned.
- Check that the calliper is properly centred.

To replace your brake cables and housings, remember to get an anti-compression brake cable housing, which you can find at the link below.

While you wait for a video specific to your bike, here is a video that explains generally what to do. If you have the slightest doubt, feel free to come see us in our stores.

Changing your gear cable means adjusting your derailleur. This requires specialist skills and knowledge. We don't yet have a video or tutorial that easily explains how to do this, so we recommend contacting one of our workshops, where our experienced mechanics will be happy to help.

There could be several reasons why your gears (cogs) are not shifting correctly.

1. Incorrectly positioned cable housing caps can hinder the pulling action on the derailleur cable and cause the shifting of the gears to be off. If a housing end is out of position, push it back into place.

2. The cable and housing might be jammed. If you can't shift into the smallest gears (onto the smallest cogs), and if the derailleur doesn't move even when the gear shifter is operated, then the cable and the housing have jammed up. In this case, the cable and housing need to be replaced.

3 - Take your gravel bike to a DECATHLON workshop to have the derailleur adjusted

NB: If you regularly ride your gravel bike in wet or muddy conditions, or if you regularly wash it with a lot of water, then your cables and housing will need to be replaced more frequently. Washing your bike using a high pressure hose is highly discouraged as it can push dirt and dust into the cable housing.