Do not place the clamps (of the workshop stand or bike carrier) on the top tube (the tube that connects the saddle to the headset). Excessive pressure on this tube can weaken or even crack it.

You can place your clamp on the seat post.

When transporting your bike on a carrier, make sure you don't pinch the frame and seatpost with clamp systems, as this could weaken and crack the components.

If you are dismantling the wheels, we recommend that you remove the axles and screw them loosely back onto the fork and rear triangle, and avoid placing any weight (bags, suitcases) on the rear stays.Otherwise, you risk weakening and cracking the frame.

Also remember to position the spacers between the brake pads to avoid damaging or upsetting your braking system, and place the chain on the large front chainring guard.

Your bike comes with a box that contains everything you need to assemble your bike.

The following are all signs that you might need to change your brake pads:

- You don't have the same responsiveness as when you bought your NCR and there's a lack of grip,
- Your bike makes a strange noise when you brake sharply,
- The thickness of the pad is below 0.5 mm.

Although disc brakes are designed to wear out the brake pads and not the disc, the disc will end up wearing out through use over time.

It can be dangerous to ride with an overly worn disc; it can give out if you brake suddenly or intensely.

The maximum wear value of the thickness of the disc is around 10% of its original value. We strongly recommend that you change it when the wear exceeds that figure.

Install the brake disc with the shoulder side facing the hub gears.

Install the locking mechanism with nut (not included) on the brake disc, screw it into the hub and then tighten to the torque recommended by the locking mechanism manufacturer.If you are using a Zipp locking ring, torque it to 40 N-m using a 44 mm diameter 16-slot external bottom bracket tool.

The tape on your handlebar will wear over time and you'll need to change it occasionally.

Follow our tuto to change it:

Your bike's wear parts all have a shelf life. If you don't replace them when necessary, it might cause other parts to wear more quickly or cause them to break:

- Chain: 5,000 km
- Cassette: 10,000 km
- Check the teeth on your chainrings and derailleur pulleys for wear.

Are your pedals broken?

NB: please note that the screw thread on the left pedal is inverted and that the pedal thus screws on in an anti-clockwise direction. The right pedal has a standard thread.

Be sure to use the correct tool to remove your pedals as you will need to use some force to unscrew them.

If you have a Sram crankset, don't forget to fit the washer as shown in the diagram below.

Please contact a Decathlon workshop or a Van Rysel certified centre to carry out the repair.

If you suffer a puncture, watch our video tutorial to find out how to change your conventional or tubeless tyre:

Watch the following video to learn how to change your rear derailleur:

If your derailleur is no longer responding to your gear changes, you may have to replace the cables and housings on the derailleur.

Watch our video tutorial to find out how:

If your drive train is not working properly and your derailleur dropout is bent.

The following video tutorial shows you how to change it.

We tell you below how to change your bike chain.

To find out if your cassette is worn just count the number of teeth on it. If the chain jumps or the cassette has more than 10,000 kilometres on it, it's time to change it.

Watch our video tutorial to find out how to change it:

Please contact a Decathlon workshop or a Van Rysel certified centre to carry out the repair.