WOMEN'S ROCKRIDER E-ST 900 27.5"+ ELECTRIC MOUNTAIN BIKE - TURQUOISE

Having the right tyre pressure is particularly important on an electric bike.
The wheels have a lot of weight on them because of the combination of the motor and bike.

For the original tube-type tyres, which have an inner tube:

To reduce the risk of punctures and ensure your bike can achieve its maximum range, we recommend you inflate your tyres to a pressure of between 1.0 and 1.8 bar.

If you'd like more grip and comfort, you can drop the pressure. If you'd like a longer battery range and more efficiency, you can inflate your tyres a little more.

Be careful not to exceed the maximum AND minimum pressures indicated on the tyre's sidewall.

If the pressure is too low, you can get pinch punctures in the inner tube or damage the rims when you hit a hard object. On the other hand, too high a pressure can make the inner tube or tyre burst, and can permanently warp the rim.

A well-inflated tyre is essential for your sport. So remember to frequently check your tyre pressure.

Tubeless is a great way of getting the most out of your tyres. The pressure is lower (by about half a bar) than with tube-type tyres. As it's less inflated, the tyre's "carcass" will be able to come into contact with the floor. And it won't be stopped by the inner tube.

With a tubeless set-up, the aim is to lower the pressure to get the most out of the tyre without the rim touching the floor as you go over obstacles.

Make sure not to inflate your tubeless tyres above 3 bars, as your carbon rims could get damaged.

A well-inflated tyre is essential for your sport. So remember to frequently check your tyre pressure.

NB: Unlike your rims, your Hutchinson Taipan Koloss tyres aren't tubeless ready.

Your Rockshox Judy fork needs to be set up according to your riding style, the terrain and your preferences, but most importantly according to your weight.

To find out the recommended pressure and rebound for your fork, click the link below. You'll be asked your weight in full kit (with helmet, shoes and hydration backpack) and the model of your bike: an E-MTB.

The app will then calculate the recommended pressure (in psi) and the rebound in number of clicks starting from a fully screwed-in position (clockwise).

The pressure defines the fork's hardness. The higher the pressure, the harder the fork will be. To adjust it, you'll need a high-pressure fork or shock pump. To access the valve and inflate the fork, unscrew the cap on your fork's crown (right-hand side). The dial on the left is there to lock out the suspension. Locking out your suspension can be useful when you reach a particularly bumpy bit of terrain.

The rebound dictates the speed at which the suspension returns to its original position after damping an impact. The rebound dial can be found underneath the fork's right blade.

For example, if you weigh 75 kg in full kit, the tool recommends inflating your fork to 99 psi and unscrewing the rebound dial by 3 clicks. These figures are recommended settings, so you are of course welcome to set up your fork however you like.

When your bike leaves the shop with its shiny new brake pads and discs, their braking power is weak. A sharp prolonged braking action (for example, during a descent) with brakes that have never before been used can cause the pads to overheat and "glaze over".

To ensure that your brakes perform, we recommend that you bed them in. This takes about 10 gentle braking actions per brake. For each braking action, apply a single brake to slow the bike down from about 25 km/h to 5 km/h without fully blocking the wheel. Repeat with the other brake.

If you can see a thin, shiny layer on the top of your brake pads, this probably means that they're glazed. To avoid having to throw them away, you can deglaze them by sanding them lightly with some relatively fine sandpaper (P120). Remember to wear gloves and a mask when sanding your brake pads. Then simply remount your brake pads and bed them in again.

Your handlebar is set to the most raised position, which is the most comfortable position for riding.

For improved aerodynamics and more efficient pedalling, you can lower your handlebar so that your body leans forward and adopts a more racing-like position.

Follow the steps in this video to move the headset spacers below the stem and lower the handlebars on your bike.

Correct handlebar alignment will prevent arm and shoulder pain as well as improving your mountain bike experience in general. Check out this video to learn how to align your handlebars.

It's important to correctly position your brake levers so that you can ride safely and comfortably. Check out this video to learn how to orient your brake levers.

Your mountain bike is compatible with our bike computer stem bracket. You can use it to mount your Garmin or Sigma GPS device or cycle computer.

NB: If you use spacers on top of your stem, the bracket won't sit correctly and you'll need to slightly "cut back" the spacer. If your spacers are below the stem, the bracket will sit correctly.

The right saddle height makes you more comfortable and more efficient. 

Start by standing next to your saddle. Tilt the quick-release lever to unlock it. Pull the saddle up or push it down to bring it level with your pelvis. Tilt the lever again to lock it. To make sure you get it right, take a look at our tutorial video.

Adjusting your saddle's angle will make you more comfortable and more efficient. Check out this video to learn how to adjust the angle of your saddle.

Watch this video to learn how to change your pedals. 

If you use clipless pedals, practise clipping in and out so that you're ready in case you take a tumble. 

To reduce the risk of your inner tube being punctured or pinched, and to improve grip and comfort, you may want to consider making your mountain bike wheels tubeless.

Your wheels are tubeless ready, which means that the rim-sealing tape is already in place. All you need is a pair of tubeless-ready tyres, some tubeless valves (Presta) and some sealant (puncture-proofing liquid). Remember to wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself in case you get a blowout.

To go tubeless, follow these steps:

1. Take the wheel off
2. Take the tyre and inner tube off the wheel
3. Check that the rim tape is properly stuck on and that there aren't any bubbles or tears
4. Insert a tubeless valve through the rim hole (from inside the rim)
5. Add 60 to 90 ml of sealant (depending on the tyre width)
6. Install your new tubeless-ready tyre
7. Inflate the wheel quickly to ensure that the tyre sticks to the rim.
Be careful not to exceed a pressure of 3 bars as this could burst the tyre and damage your rims.

If it seems too tricky, just visit your nearest Decathlon workshop and ask them to do it for you.

It takes three hours to charge the battery fully (from 0% to 100%).

It's an electric-assist bike. This means you can also ride it without assistance.
However, you may well notice the additional weight of the assistance system.

To avoid any electrical hazards, we advise against leaving your bike/battery plugged into the mains for more than 24 hours.
When the battery is fully charged, the charger stops charging. The LED light on the charger turns green when the battery is charged.

No. Lithium-ion batteries have no memory effect. They can therefore be charged at any time.
We recommend charging your battery regularly to keep it working well.

No, it doesn't have a dynamo. Some systems let you charge the battery as you ride or brake, but this doesn't generate much power.

When your battery wears out, take it to your local Decathlon store, which will send it to a specialist facility to be recycled.

You must store and charge your battery in a cool (between 10°C and 25°C), dry place, out of direct sunlight.
To avoid deep discharge, which may cause it to malfunction, do not put the battery away when less than 10% charged.
Ideally, charge the battery to 60% and recharge it (even if it's not being used) at least once a year to prevent deep discharge and loss of the battery's capacity.

You can buy a new battery from your local Decathlon workshop.
Contact your nearest workshop to check on availability and order times.

The warranty on your battery is for 2 years or 500 cycles (1 cycle = 1 full charge + 1 full discharges, or two 50% charges + two 50% discharges). Up to these 500 cycles, we guarantee that the battery life will always be at least 80% of a new battery's life.

1. CHECK THE BATTERY > CHARGER > MAINS SOCKET CONNECTION
> Make sure the charger you are using is an original one provided by Decathlon.
Connect the charger to the battery and to a mains socket.
Red charger light = the battery is charging.
Green charger light = the battery has finished charging.
Flashing charger light = there is a problem with the battery or charger.
A completely drained battery will take 6 hours to charge fully.

2. CHECK THAT THERE IS NO DIRT PREVENTING CHARGING
The charger's and the battery's connectors should be clean. There should be no dirt preventing contact between the battery and its charger.

3. THE LED INDICATORS ON THE BATTERY MAY BE FAULTY
Visit a Decathlon workshop to have them repaired.

THE LAST LED (furthest from the battery button) IS FLASHING.
Your battery is almost flat and needs to be charged. Plug your battery into the charger.

 THE 4TH LED IS FLASHING
Your battery's voltage is low and it has not been charged for a long time. Plug it in as soon as possible to stop it going into deep discharge, which could affect its capacity.

ANOTHER LED IS FLASHING 
Your battery has suffered an abnormal event that has caused it to malfunction. This malfunction may be temporary or permanent. Please visit any Decathlon workshop to have a diagnostics test run on your battery and bike.

An error code may appear on your screen. This code can vary depending on which screen your bike has (Brose Comfort or Brose Allround)

All error codes are listed in the user guides (Comfort and Allround). There are instructions on how to resolve each error code.

If the problem persists or if you're unable to resolve it, please visit one of our Decathlon workshops to have it repaired.

1. Make sure you are following the recommendations for using and storing your bike.
Your electric bike's range depends on a number of factors:
> THE LOAD ON THE BIKE: The range will be reduced if the bike is carrying too much weight.
> THE TYPE OF ROUTE: The range is reduced on climbs.
> THE TYRE PRESSURE: The battery will last longer with tyres that are correctly inflated.
> THE OUTDOOR TEMPERATURE: The range is lower in colder weather (up to 50% less).
> THE ASSISTANCE MODE USED: We recommend reducing the assistance mode when the battery is running low.
> FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHARGING AND STORING YOUR BATTERY

2. An old battery can have reduced performance.
The distance you can travel will therefore be reduced. Visit your Decathlon workshop to give your battery a check-up.

On the E-ST900 electric bikes produced before November 2020, the back wheel sometimes makes a slightly metallic noise. This is caused by the disc brake touching the brake pads, which can happen either on corners, at high speeds, or in a high assistance mode.

On certain bikes, the frame / rear wheel assembly isn't stiff enough, often due to variations
in the size of the hub and frame or to it being tightened to too low a torque. The result is that these parts
don't move together on corners, and the disc touches the brake pads too easily.


In most cases, all you need to do is tighten the rear wheel. The ideal torque is 18 to 20 Nm and this should get rid of any problems (at this torque, there's no risk of damaging the frame or axle).

If the problem persists, please take your bike to a Decathlon workshop to have the rear assembly checked. Our technicians are aware of this problem and will be able to correct it.

When you start using your new bike, lots of its parts are going to wriggle around as they settle into place.

One such part is the spokes, which can sometimes be heard pinging. This is caused by the residual twist from assembly.

Your wheels should not be buckled in any way at all. If they are, let your local Decathlon workshop know when you take your bike for its free service (six months after purchase) so that they can adjust it for you.

There are several things you can do to ensure your rear gears shift properly:

1. Check the cable and its housing:
1a. Housing ends that are out of position can obstruct the derailleur cable when it is being pulled and prevent the gears from shifting smoothly. If a housing end is out of position, push it back into place.

1b. If the derailleur is not moving even after you squeeze and release the gear lever, it probably means that the cable and its housing have seized up. You will need to have the cable and housing replaced.

You can take your bike to a Decathlon workshop to get your cable and housing replaced, or you can do it yourself by following this video. The only difference between the video and your bike is that you have a single housing going from the shifter, under the frame's down tube, and down to the derailleur.

2. Check that the derailleur hanger isn't bent:
A bent hanger causes the derailleur to be out of alignment and therefore unable to function correctly. Stand behind your bike and check the alignment of the derailleur.

If the dropout is twisted or broken, take your bike to a DECATHLON workshop to have it replaced.

REMEMBER: you can have all the settings on your bike checked for free within six months of purchase.

NB: If you regularly ride your MTB in wet or muddy conditions, or if you regularly wash your bike with lots of water, then your cables and cable housing will need to be replaced more frequently. Washing your bike using a high pressure hose is highly discouraged as it can push dirt and dust into the cable housing.